Quarantined, Graduated, Decided!

July 1, 2009 (Hong Kong’s Anniversary of Return to China)

Now that I’ve returned to teaching three familiar kindergartners mixed with a dozen four-year-olds, I can smile back on my 2:30 a.m. Monday, June 22 arrival in Sanya. I got a text message during the second hour in seat 14D as China Northern waited on Shanghai’s runway: “The government says all must quarantine one week. Please stay in your apartment three more days. I hope you can understand. Helen”
 
I didn’t understand as I climbed Building 12’s four flights, littered with trash, wrappers, butts, and construction dust. No one had swept, let alone mopped the stairs in my absence. At least I didn’t have to teach next day; jet lag could wear off. I awakened hungry with empty fridge and larder. Clinton called and brought breads, spaghetti sauce, meat, and condiments. Venes, whose visiting Philippino sister had to stay away from Golden Sun all week, brought food from the lunchroom. She laughed about teachers’ fear of touching my dishes, but I felt somehow unclean. A full heat wave raged outside my air-conditioned bedroom. I read, slept, drank boiled water, listened to hammering downstairs where they’re refurbishing an apartment.
 
Mostly, I increasingly felt that I wanted to join Babe English School’s international staff in Lin’An outside Hangzhou in two months; I hated to abandon Helen, whom I knew had made up her mind I was staying in Sanya after my August 31 contract ends. I decided to run it through my head and past trusted family and friends, sending out these pros and cons.
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“Both: agree to six month contracts, provide apartment, paperwork and medical exam expenses, get supplies needed for teaching, airfare back to US, have keyboards, DVD players, dance rooms, offices to handle parents, have me teaching up second floor stairs; have mountain greenery; I like five-year-olds and have curricula in my head; work 14-16 hours/week;

Golden Sun +s: already established a good program to repeat, successful English Corner, I know Sanya, have discount cards for Western restaurants, have friends with cars and books, three beaches to walk/swim; big markets with fresh fruit, seafood, vegetables; have comfortable apartment with guitar, bike; yoga class; massage place is good and cheap; facials and haircuts are great; Helen gets travel discounts/invites me to special happenings/feels I’m an asset for school; three high-paying tutorees I enjoy; free meals M-F at school; good reputation here; cheap transport to airport

-s: differences in ed philosophies; last minute surprises; teachers I trained are going elsewhere; extreme heat half year (100s yesterday); school’s very production-oriented with costly, extravagant programs that require kids to practice memorizing for weeks; lower salary (still adequate);

Babe English School +s: British couple teach jr high-adult classes with skill (he’s kind of principal); their two-bedroom apartment was adequate with a great patio looking at mountains; bigger kitchen; owners liked me immediately and want me; more salary, but more expenses; promise of anything needed to outfit newly-refurbished kdgn room; have mornings and Sun-noon-to-Tues-afternoon free each week; would like me to mentor inexperienced teachers (from Philippines, Canada, Australia); tea-growing area with a.m. mist on big lake; close to Hangzhou (great city with culture, shopping, eats); quiet and non-touristy; city’s cleaner than Sanya; classes (6 kids) for 50 minutes each; university nearby with English Corner to meet foreigners; three friends are teaching in Hangzhou next year”
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Two hot days of reflection and reading left me calm, but stir crazy. E-mails came, telling me everything from a “no-brainer for the new adventure” to “stay and go with the flow”–most reminded me of what I knew. The answer was within me.I read each one, picturing dear faces a half-world away at their computers.
 
I closed off two bedrooms and laundry-room entry and cooked spaghetti for Venes and Ami. The meat turned out to be mutton (probably goat); I made a mental note not to try that combination again. Helen called, “Can you come tomorrow at 9:30? We will take a graduation picture.”
 
“Do I also teach tomorrow?”
“I think you return to teach Thursday.”
Evidently I was not contagious if posing for group pictures, only when teaching.
 
After pictures, I walked boldly to market for in-season watermelon and mangos, biked to get a foot massage. Clinton, two-time angel of mercy, drove me to buy a fan. Air began circulating nicely in my apartment. Thursday a.m. re-entry was full of smiling Chinese greetings. Helen said she had knocked with China Daily and fruit, but I hadn’t answered. I confessed that I had gone to get a fan, since she had “let me out of jail for pictures”. She laughed and confessed she hadn’t been to yoga class since I left, three weeks ago.
 
“We begin again next week. Graduation Friday.”
“What? When I left graduation was June 30.”
“That is Tuesday. Parents take children to mainland homes on weekend, so we change to tomorrow. “
 
I had written my speech before leaving for Ella to translate. Helen, helped her do it that morning, then rushed off to run a dozen pre-graduation errands. She appreciated, but declined, my offer to hang banner and balloons in the park at 7:00 a.m. Parents and kids, dressed to the hilt, came at 9:00. At 10:00, my words got rounding applause: ***********************************************
“Mothers, Fathers, and Friends of Golden Sun Kindergarten… In my country, kindergarten is usually part of Primary or Elementary School. Some children go to preschool while still in diapers, some attend private school from preschool-to-senior in highschool, and most begin school at age 5 in Public School Kindergarten and continue through Grade 7-9 Middle School and Grade 9-12 High School. A small percentage of children are home schooled. Graduation, in my country means a momentous occasion at age 17 or 18. I have experience with all four kinds of schooling, but this is my first kindergarten graduation.
 
I remember the children in Golden Sun Senior Class with great fondness. Jessica memorized many lines as “Snow White” last month. Coco became a confident speaker as queen in the English play. Jack’s laughter and singing as he worked made me smile many days. Jay’s sharing with friends warmed my heart often. Hank’s quick answers were a teacher’s delight…(I mentioned a positive trait of each kindergartner I’d taught.)
 
Your children did what I believe children are meant to do. They played, looked, listened, and put together ideas about how to get along. I think learning to share and get along with others is the biggest job a young child does. At the same time, he or she needs good teaching guidance to develop skills in speaking, math, writing, and reading. A small part of that is memorization, something I find most Chinese do very well. This year, we tried to use what we memorized, think how it could solve problems and connect with life.
 
I knew that Tom was solving problems when he discovered the ‘T’ sound was at the beginning and end of ‘tent’ and spelled it on the chalkboard. I was pleased when Sticky used English to get something, “Teacher Virginia, I have no eraser!” I watched John learn how to look at the teacher and learn from others; he was the first one to recognize all ABCs.
 
Your children and my own four grandchildren are our world’s future. I hope I have shown Golden Sun that there can be true joy in learning–whether it is about my country’s customs far away or China’s proud, colorful traditions. It has been my pleasure to be a teacher this year.”
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The 33 graduates chased balloons, wriggled through teachers’ speeches, received diplomas and remembrance books, ate a three-tired cake, and hunted papers to win the honor of letting doves fly skyward with good wishes tied to their feet. The poor doves, harrassed by kids holding/grasping/launching them, couldn’t get off the ground. I retreated to sit on a rock with Helen’s in-laws until rain clouds ended the harrassment. I suspected that several doves went home to a cooking pot as we hurriedly loaded cars and school bus. 
 
Saturday, Helen invited Venes, Ami, and me to go to Nanshan Temple, dedicated to Kwan Yin. Friends and contributors to temple coffers, we were driven around like royalty. Helen and Kailyn, secretary, prayed to Prosperity Buddha for money. Helen’s special Kwan Yin statue allowed her and me inside with the many-limbed goddess in gold, where Helen kowtowed and I meditated until a young girl spoke persuasive Chinese. Was it a prophecy of increased enrollment? More high-end international fees? Good health? No. She was hoping Helen would give money for a golden chain and special ribbon on a flowered offering.
 
We hurried to where Helen’s husband’s entire family planted a “Buddha tree” in honor of his mother’s recovery from cancer. She handed me a red-ribboned spade to do the honors. Lunch at a Muslim restaurant near Sanya Bay–fish, coconut milk, chicken-vegetables in tiny bread bowls, spinach, specialty dishes, and soup–made it a magical day.
 
Primed to talk with Helen, I asked for some time Monday. She promised an afternoon meeting as we drove to yoga class. Then some kids had to be readied for a photo session with a Chinese superstar, so she suggested Tuesday. That was over a week after I thought I was to finish “considering six more months.”
 
It was a very comfortable meeting. She said she hoped I would continue, but understood my need to try another teaching challenge. I told her that not wanting to disappoint her was my biggest problem with leaving Sanya. She thanked me for offering to return for short term teacher training whenever needed. We reviewed summer school changes, English Corner plans, and made plans to go to yoga in the evening. I e-mailed Zoe, at Babe School, an affirmative and went to bed a contented woman.

U S-China Vacation Contrasts

June 13 and the Kansas reunion was approaching to celebrate Mom’s 90th year. Ten months since I had seen family, I knew they all planned to be at hometown Fredonia (except nephew Ben sailing somewhere around the Bahamas). Golden Sun Kindergarten boss, Helen said I could depart Sanya for two weeks, returning in time for kindergarten graduation. She ordered Shanghai-Chicago-Kansas City roundtrip ticket at 2/3 the discount price on English websites, but insisted we wait until domestic Sanya-Shanghai tickets were on sale two weeks prior to departure.

I couldn’t resist saying, “In America, you buy tickets early to get discounts. This feels backwards to me.” A slight savings did little to offset my Western anxiety about ordering the costly final leg of arrival journey before knowing I had a ticket to make that flight.

Helen drove me to the airport at 5:00 a.m., reassuring me she “would get a good price” and e-mail me my Shanghai-Sanya flight and hotel destination later. I read and ate (30 yuan duck l’orange sandwich, a pricey $4.50US) in hazy Pudong Shanghai airport for six hours before boarding United. Every few minutes, people were admonished to report to authorities if they had a fever or felt poorly. I donned a mask, along with half the plane’s passengers, on take-off. Three movies, three meals, naps, and one book later, we landed in Chicago. There was plenty of time for customs, dinner, and dark chocolate almond snacks.$10 pre-made sandwiches plus tax (not charged in China) tasted like gold, but the mayo and mustard were like old familiar friends.  

Friends met me at Mid Continent Airport, introduced me to their loaner Honda, plied me with evening cabernet and morning lattes, and gave free reign to a well-stocked refridgerator.First impressions, driving from the airport, were of how organized, spacious, and green was my old home, Kansas City. My lovely apartment’s upper window looked out on Rockwell-Nelson Art Gallery.

Intentions to do its Sculpture Walk waited for a day; I slept til noon, then began a whirl of lunches, dinners, and parties over the next five days. There wasn’t enough time with any one person, yet I had relaxed opportunities to catch up on most friends’ lives. I’m grateful for those who called, planned, and understood when schedules didn’t mesh. Lives had moved on this past ten months: one couple was selling a home for a painful move to assisted living. Two self-reported memory problems. Most had grandchild pictures handy. Hair was whiter, familiar figures hid beneath extra pounds I didn’t remember, but personalities were the same and greetings were genuine. 

Coffee with Heather, who taught in China 20 years ago, led to a first-time experience, peaceful anti-protest gathering in support of Ohev Sholom where a noisy handful Fred Phelps’ folks picketed. I was impressed with the patience and candor of the friendly policemen who asked us to stay quietly on our side of the street. Protestants, Catholics, Jews, and agnostics quietly sang “We Shall Overcome,” giving support to the synogogue members berated as “Christ killers.”Across the street, children held vile signs; one man preached hate for minorities, abortion, and homosexuals. I thought of China’s risking to break sexual taboos with its first gay movie, Spring Fever. The picketers quickly left after 30 minutes.

I waved at the two policemen present and remembered that this was the day after a Beijing protest anniversary that ended in loss of lives. I went on to do my taxes, have oral surgery in preparation for a three-tooth bridge, and a long nap.    A Scrabble game won by one point, dinners in kitchens, lunches and coffees on patios, and gardening tips after an elegant Delta Kappa Gamma gathering stand out in memory. At church, I got more than my share of hugs and marveled at how the youth had grown–both in size and talent. One girl showed a power point of her winning Model Cities project, rebuilding in miniature Greensburg, KS flattened by a tornado. A boy played confident guitar in the sensitive praise band.The service flowed, moving me toward a hopeful place where love and peace spoke possibilities in today’s world.

Over lunch waffles, a friend and I updated births, deaths, and infirmities in families long known. Ex-roommate, Liz met me at the Nelson for exhibits of intricate Indian art and Siegel sculptures. Harris’ evening gourmet party brought teaching co-workers, biking buddies, and friends. Dana and Alan arrived on bikes (I formerly owned hers), excited that they will teach in a Hangzhou university next year. I answered questions, hoping I did justice to “How do Chinese….view Americans….see the economic downturn…?” It is hard to draw conclusions about so vast a country, with development bringing change in attitudes and knowledge almost daily.

A three-hour drive south to Wichita reunited me with family, over 30 of us. Ethan decided he’d rent out his room at $5/night. Grant showed me an impressive coin collection and seemed pleased at the Asian money I added to it. Kent’s CA family, held overnight in Dallas due to 8″ of rain, drove in a yellow rental, identical to the color of Helen’s Hundai that had driven me to Sanya’s airport. Law student, Kate, and Medical Transcriptionist, Jed, came from Montana without a problem. Six-month-old grand-nephew, Chase announced Justin’s family’s arrival in the middle of the night. CA Niece Jennifer’s family drove with a camper, where the kids elected to sleep when they weren’t in three tents. KS son-in-law Brian was unaware that his torn bicep put him in a class with Hillary Clinton (broken elbow) and Margaret Thatcher (upper arm surgery). Arm in a sling awaiting surgery, he supervised loading a new grill on their truck for two-hour transport to Fredonia’s South Mound and the reunion lunch. Sister Gayla’s family brought delicious salads, neighbors dropped by, and my friend since second grade surprised us. We played Scrabble and looked at photo albums in Mom’s Madison Square clubhouse. Brother Ron and I took a walk around the hometown, slept at Mom’s, and had pancakes and llama sausage for breakfast. Then it was back to daughter Janet’s pool and hot dogs topped off by home-made ice cream.  Some of us took a four-mile walk on country roads to walk off the calories.

It was hard to tell them good-bye, knowing I’d commit to eight months more somewhere in China. Departure day, I picked up e-mail with Shanghai hotel and air confirmations just in time to board United. I left confident that my $3000 teeth would adapt to chopsticks just fine and my taxes were a break-even proposition this year. On the plane, China Daily’s account, “World’s Oldest Man Dies in Sleep” (at 113), reminded me that my kids delightedly said they might just as well plan Grandma Mary’s 100th, ten years away.

Fourteen hours later, white-clad space-age figures aimed lazer guns at foreheads for an hour, starting in the front of the plane. They looked at me and barked Chinese. Uh oh! My seatmate interpreted, “Pull up your hair.” I lifted my bangs, and they pronounced a mask-muffled “OK” and shuffled past on white-covered footies. I made a mental note to get a hair cut soon. Kunming student now working in Shanghai, Toby, told me while we strolled People’s Square and Walking Street, “I have a dream. I’ll visit America and play hu lu si with you on your 100th birthday. I guess I’d better start practicing. It might happen.